Saturday, September 10, 2016

Teal Vest, Zippergasms, and More!

Long Teal Vest

I've finished another garment for Paris. Sandra Betzina released this tunic/vest pattern with the early Fall Vogue collection last July. I snapped it up in the first sale. I purchased this fabric, "Teal Double Weave", from Marcy Tilton last January.

It is a very interesting fabric. The double weave, which creates a quilted effect, was lovely to sew. It raveled a bit, but not badly, and it pressed beautifully. The yardage went through the washer and dryer like a champ. I also used a 2-way 24" zipper I'd purchased from Botani while visiting NYC.

I started with a size E (typical), View A, and made a few alterations and modifications:

  • The front-and-back-princess seam pattern has Dior darts, which I lowered and enlarged (typical).
  • 1/2" forward shoulder adjustment (typical)
  • The pattern has a CB seam, but I didn't notice at first. When I cut it out I put the back pattern piece on a fold. I could have easily sliced along the fold afterwards, but I decided not to. Instead, I removed the excess with two 3/8" darts at the back neck. I was pleased with this approach because it gives me another 1-1/4" of ease across the back. I don't mind having more ease in this non-stretch fabric.
  • Reinforced the back of the collar stand with extra stiff interfacing secured with rows of quilting
  • The pattern has no pockets. (Whaaaaaaaat?!) I added my "Covert Cavity Pockets."
  • The pattern has no front facings, meaning that the zipper tape is not covered. If you wear the neckline open, the wrong side of the zipper tape would show. I covered the tape with narrow front facings.
  • This sleeveless pattern is designed with extended shoulders and the armhole is on the small-and-tight side. I didn't like how closely fitted the armhole was for a layering garment, so I removed 1" around the entire armhole. I also didn't like how the extended shoulder cap looked on me (it looked a bit Romulan), so I removed another 1" from the top of the sleeve (removing a total of 2" from the top), creating a more natural armhole.
  • The vest is unlined, but I finished all raw edges with bias tape.

The pattern has no side seams, so use the other seams to control the shaping. My vest is a bit loose through the waist, but I wanted to be able to layer it.

Reinforcing the back collar

See the darts added to the back neckline

The "main" pocket opening of my "Covert Cavity Pocket."

Unzip the invisible zipper along top edge to access the stealth pocket inside.

A 24" double-ended zipper I bought from Botani when I visited NYC

I like how it layers!

Vogue 1510, Sandra Betzina's Zip Front Tunic and Vest

J.N. Zippers

I first visited J.N. Zippers in South San Francisco over 3 years ago in July, 2013. Last Thursday I made my second trip there. J.N.Zippers is a wholesaler who imports hardware from China. They have a (hard to navigate) retail website, Zprz, and a wholesale website, J.N. Zippers (which had been down for days until I told them on my visit). They don't have a brick and mortar store, but they are willing to sell to individuals who stop by. This means that you have to visit on a weekday, during the day. They are located in the industrial part of South San Francisco near the airport. They've actually moved since I was last there in 2013—they are now located at 380 Swift Avenue, #5. Parking is plentiful and free in this area. If you look at the massive building from Swift Lane, they are along the left side of the building, five businesses down.

They don't only sell zippers. They also sell giant snaps, buckles, cord stops, and purse hardware. I only have to walk into their office and look at their wall of goods to enter my spiritual happy place. I have lots of pictures to share with you. If you see something you like, and you can't find it on their website (they told me that they are working on an improved website, thank goodness), send them a copy of my picture and circle the item you want.

Their factory is next door to their office and they are willing to customize zippers for you by cutting them shorter or swapping the slider to one of their many decorative sliders. I was on a mission for zippers for a teal jacket. I found the perfect zippers and I had them customized while I waited. If you have a large order, they prefer that you come back later or that they mail them to you. There is not much going on in this part of town, but you can drive to nearby Burlingame or San Bruno for food or shopping.I was on my lunch break so I waited for my 6 zippers. I also bought two zipper lanyards and two polka dot zippers. I still have a stash of striped zippers from my last visit.


My haul

I love all of the metallic shades!

I loved the 2-color zippers and asked if they could do red and black. She said that they'd have to get that from China. I didn't ask, but I assume that means they'd require a minimum order.

Thar she blows! The elusive striped zipper!

Giant zippers and center pull (luggage style) zippers!

A few of their rhinestone zippers—they had more variety in one of the binders

Giant snaps

Silk Chiffon Burnout Scarf

When I was in NYC last July, I purchased 2 yards of silk chiffon burnout. I saw lots of silk chiffon burnout fabrics at different stores in the garment district, so it must be an "in" fabric right now.

Measuring the silk chiffon burnout, Chic Fabrics, NYC

I intended the fabric for a scarf. I thought I would do the easy thing and tear the fabric to my desired dimensions (26" by 72"). It tore ok along the grain. But when I tried to tear it across the grain... what a mess! Regular silk chiffon tears very well, but not this stuff.

Oops, don't tear a silk chiffon burnout!

If the fabric had torn cleanly, I might have just left the raw edges unfinished, but this fabric needed to be finished, so I used a micro hem for sheer fabrics along three edges. I left the selvedge edge alone.

I've worn this scarf to work and I love it! It's as if a litter of kittens are cuddling my neck.

Sweater Knit Presto

Here is Presto top #7! (Savage Coco has made 12 herself and I need to catch up. ;) )

I really wanted one made out of a sweater knit. This is that same heathered sweater knit that I've already used for 3 projects in different shades of teal and blue. I just love this fabric! It's soft and drapey. Another great basic that I'll probably take to Europe.

Presto #6

DD1 needs some mom time this weekend, but I hope to squeeze in some sewing. I have one more jacket I'd like to finish for Paris, plus a raincoat which is almost finished. Otherwise, I'm working on some simpler projects.

Have a great weekend! Join me on Patti's Visible Monday.